Oversized Scrunchie DIY

I have to say that I was surprised by how quickly I got onto the “scrunchie train” once they were back in style. At first, I just did it when I heard they were great for keeping long hair out of your face while you sleep (which they are!), but then I started wearing them during the day too and I realized I hardly ever reach for a plain hairband these days. While there are lots of scrunchie styles to choose from (still love this DIY bow scrunchie), the oversized scrunchie is one I’ve been dying to try and it turns out they are pretty easy to make! With an oversized scrunchie, you get a lot more drama and volume than your usual look, so it’s great when you want to make a little more of an accessory statement without going wild …

-1/4 yard of silk or satin material
fray check glue
-straight pins and fabric scissors
-sewing machine
3/8″ wide elastic
-safety pin

Cut a piece of fabric with your scissors or rotary cutter that is 22″ x 4.5″. Fold over the top 1/2″ of your rectangle and iron the edge flat. It’s an optional step, but when using silky or satin fabric I like to add some fray check glue to the edges to keep it from unraveling while sewing or wearing, so that’s why the cut edges look a little darker in the photos.

Fold your rectangle lengthwise, right sides together, and sew down the length of the tube, leaving a 2″ opening for turning the scrunchie later.

Now we are going to pull one end of the tube halfway through until the opening on one side meets up with the opening on the other side. Pin the openings flush with each other.

Sew around the opening with 1/4″ seam allowance, sewing the two openings together.

To turn your scrunchie right side out, find the 2″ gap that you left in your side seam.
Pull your material through the gap so the scrunchie is right side out. Cut a 7″ long piece of elastic and pin a safety pin through one end of the elastic.

Use the safety pin end and thread the elastic through your scrunchie tube. Overlap each 1/2” end to complete the elastic circle and pin, then sew in place. Once your elastic is in place, push it back into the tube of your scrunchie and sew the opening closed by hand. Now your oversized scrunchie is ready to use! Fun! I love how much volume this scrunchie has compared to my other ones and it’s definitely a more visible statement piece than a smaller version would be. It’s cute with just a sweatshirt (like that cozy coffee one) or can be dressed up for a night out on the town too. What do you think? Are you going to go oversized now?? xo. Laura

P.S. If you want some ideas on how to style scrunchies, check out our five favorite ways to wear them!

Credits // Author and Photography: Laura Gummerman. Photos edited with ACS for Desktop actions.

Cloth Party Favor Bags (With Free Printable!)

I don’t know about you, but anytime I go to an event where there are gift bags for the guests when you leave, well, I always feel like a celebrity picking up their “swag bag” on the way out of an Oscar’s party or something. Giving out little gifts to your guests is a great way to say “thank you for coming” and let them know you appreciate their effort and presence at your event. While it’s totally up to you what items you want to fill your favor bags with, we partnered with Canon USA to share a cute printable so you can customize some cloth favor bags to be as cute as the rest of the decor at your celebration (and you can do it all yourself at home)!

-cloth favor bags (I used these 5″x7″ bags)
-Canon Light Fabric Iron-On Transfers Paper 
Canon PIXMA TS9521C printer
-fabric scissors and iron
favor bag printable (right click to download)

Download the favor bag printables and print them out onto iron-on transfer paper. The Canon PIXMA TS8521C is perfect for craft projects, and Canon just came out with their new new light fabric iron-on transfers paper that we’re loving! You can use it for lighter colored fabrics and the color quality really comes through! If you want to make these at home we have one design option with four of the same designs on one page for making lots of smaller bags like I did and then another option with just one design per page that you can scale up as needed for larger bags. The files are already mirrored for you so they will look right once you iron them on the bag.Cut out your designs with scissors to leave a 1/8″ border all the way around the design. Place the designs face down onto the center of your bag and iron your designs on per your iron-on sheet instructions (I pressed mine with a dry iron on the cotton setting for 60-90 seconds).
Once your designs have cooled, slowly peel off the backing and reveal your design!

How sweet are those?! We made a few different types of designs so there would be one that could work for birthdays, kid parties, baby showers, weddings … basically any party you want!

Depending on what your party is, you can fill your bags with whatever you like! Things like candy, little toys or stickers are great for kid’s parties and small beauty items and candles are fun for showers … the possibilities are endless! I like that these cloth bags can be reused as gift bags again by the guests or they can also store lots of things around the house (I save and use small cloth bags like these when I pack for trips—super helpful for organizing my daughter’s suitcase to hold socks or hair accessories, etc.). I feel like I always appreciate extra little touches like these at events and I love that you can easily batch make these at home with a printer and an iron. These cutie bags are a great end to a fantastic event and I hope that they make it onto your party list soon! xo. Laura

Credits // Author and Photography: Laura Gummerman. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop. Graphic Design: Mara Dawn.

Simple Macrame Camera Strap Tutorial

For those of us that still enjoy lugging around our trusty DSLR or Instax instant cameras, there’s a need for cute camera straps. Gone are the days of settling for factory grade black nylon straps. This simple macrame camera strap tutorial will not only work as an accessory to anything in your capsule wardrobe, it’ll ensure you’re able to explore your own city hands free.

Don’t need a standard length camera strap? I’m also sharing a wristlet camera strap for those who like to travel light! There are so many great cotton yarns on the market, so it’s easier than ever to pick your favorite color. You can also stick with natural cotton if you prefer something really neutral. The best part is that if these get dirty, you can just throw them in the washing machine on a gentle cycle and it’ll be as good as new.

two 1″ black swivel lobster claw clasps per strap
-102′ of 3mm soft cotton cord for a roughly 40″ camera strap (shown in photo)
-116′ of 3mm soft cotton cord for a roughly 48″ camera strap 
-40′ of 2mm combed cotton cord for a wristlet strap (shown in photo)
-over the door hook to anchor the clasp to while tying knots

NOTE: I used an over the door clothes hook and metal hoop that I hooked my clasp to for maximum comfort. You can also use an S-hook. The instructions below teach how to construct any of the three different camera strap lengths even though I am only showing how to construct the wristlet. Note that 2mm cord and 3mm cord will give you different outcomes in both width and length, so be sure to use the correct cord weight shared in the links above.

Step One: If you’re making the roughly 40″ camera strap, cut four 25′ strands of 3mm cotton cord and set the rest aside.

If you’re making the roughly 48″ camera strap, cut four 28.5″ strands of 3mm cotton cord and set the rest aside.

If you’re making the wristlet camera strap, cut four 9′ lengths of 2 mm cotton and set the rest aside.

Step Two: Hook your black lobster clasp to a hook, hoop, or S-ring. Fold one of your four strands in half so that you find the center. Loop the center over the bar of the clasp and then slide the ends through the loop to create a lark’s head knot.

Step Three: Repeat with the next three strands. Then split them apart so that four strands are on one side and four strands are on the other. I will refer to these as strands 1-8 from left to right. Even if they move around, I’ll still refer to them in the order that they rest in each step. For example, if strand two finds itself on the opposite side after a knot, if will no longer be strand two but strand seven.

Step Four: Use strand four to tie two half hitches around strand five so that they rest about 2.5″ from the clasp.

Step Five: Use strand three to tie two half hitches as well.

Step Six: Repeat with strands two and then one. Now split the strands in half again so that the first four on left are the new strands 1-4 and the four on the right are strands 5-8.

Step Seven: Use strand six to tie two half hitches around strand five.

Step Eight: Repeat with strands seven and then eight. This makes the top half of your diamond pattern.

Step Nine: Use strands and seven to tie a half knot over the middle strands (3-6). Don’t pull it too tightly.

Step Ten: Take the new second strand and the new seventh strand and tie another half knot over strands three through six to form a square knot.

Step Eleven: Use the new strand two to tie two half hitches around strand one. This will start the bottom part of your diamond.

Step Twelve: Use strand three to tie two half hitch knots and then strand four.

Step Thirteen: Use strand seven to tie two half hitch knots around strand eight and then follow them using strands six and five.

Step Fourteen: Use the new strand four to tie two half hitch knots over strand five to close the bottom of your diamond.

Step Fifteen: Use strands one and four to tie two half knots to form a square knot over strands two and three. Repeat with strands five and eight over strands six and seven.

Step Sixteen: Start on your next diamond by using strand four to tie two half hitch knots over strand five, then repeat with strands three, two and one.

Step Seventeen: Finish the other top half of your diamond and then use the new strands two and seven to tie a square knot around strands three through six. Then finish up the bottom of your diamond, add square knots on either side of your diamond, and start a new diamond. Repeat until you are about three inches short of your desired length.

Step Eighteen: Trim your strands so that they are all about 6.5″ long. Tie each strand to the second lobster clasp with a lark’s head knot (also called a cow hitch). Only this time, you’ll have to tie it using only one strand. See details here. Be sure that the knot is about 3″ down from the last diamond and has about 3″ of a tail.

Step Nineteen: You’ll be doubling the amount of lark’s head knots on this lobster clasp, so squeeze them together tightly.

Step Twenty: Use the cord that you set aside at the beginning and cut two 2′ strands. Make an upside down U-shape with one end of the two strands so that the U is slightly above the lark’s head knots. Then fold the strands again near the tails of the lark’s head knots so that they reach over the strap.

Step Twenty-One: Use the long end of those two straps to trap the U-shape on top of the strap and continue wrapping around all of them to create a wrapped knot.

Step Twenty-Two: Once you’re almost to the lark’s head knots, place the long end of your wrapped knot strands through your loop.

Step Twenty-Three: Pull down on the other end of the loop so that the U shape, along with the long end, disappear under the wraps.

Step Twenty-Four: Trim off both ends of the wrapped knot and then gently trim off the excess from the tail ends. Spread your wrapped knot down to cover the cut ends.

Step Twenty-Five: Add another wrapped knot to the other end of your strap. It won’t be quite as thick because there are half as many strands to wrap around, but it won’t be too noticeable. Attach both lobster clasps to the same ring hook on your camera for the wristlet version.

If you’re making the 40″ or 48″ version, you’ll follow all of the same directions above but will attach one lobster clasp to each side of your camera.

NOTE: These camera straps are sturdy if made according to the directions. Always test out your camera strap holding your camera over your bed before taking it out. Always check that your lobster clasps are securely attached to your camera before picking it up.

I recommend the wristlet for smaller cameras, such as an Instax or Instax Mini. If you’re using a large DSLR with a heavy lens, it’s probably better to go with the larger strap for the sake of comfort. However, the larger strap also looks REAL cute when attached to a smaller camera.

This project only took me a few hours to make after I figured out the details. It’s inspiring me to grab my DSLR instead of always relying on my smartphone for photos! If you’re already pretty familiar with macrame, there are SO many knot patterns you can create to customize your strap even further. Enjoy! –Rachel

Interested in more simple macrame projects? Check out our macrame table runner, macrame room divider, macrame handbag, macrame Christmas stocking, and macrame bracelet.

Credits//Author and Photography: Rachel Denbow. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

Crayon Wallet DIY For Kids (Great For Travel!)

Traveling with kids can be fun, buuuuut it’s not always easy. Leaving the house with toddlers in tow (even for short trips and errands) can be tricky, so it’s always a good idea to have snacks and activities nearby to occupy them as needed. I’ve had some sort of crayon wallet for Lola in her bag since before she could even hold crayons, and they have totally saved us time and time again as we’ve needed a distraction for her while we wait for food at restaurants or travel in the car. I’ve always wanted to make my own and it’s super helpful to have these spread out throughout your belongings (one in diaper bag, one in car, etc.). We are partnering with JOANN to create this cute project and I love that I could get everything for my project all in one trip to their store—saves this busy mom a lot of time! They also have a large kid’s section in JOANN and I’ve found so many family-friendly projects in their stores (it’s a great place to go if you need a present for a kiddo as well!). OK, let’s get to making our wallet!Supplies:
felt in 3 colors
fabric scissors and straight pins
double fold bias tape
wiggle eyes and glue
5/8″ glitter elastic
1/4″ gold elastic
shank button
crayons (the triangle ones are my favorite for little kids!)
-small blank notebook
-sewing machine

OK! You can either leave the front of your wallet blank or you can add a little felt detail or sew a patch onto it to make a little decoration for the front. I just cut out a little 4″ wide sun shape from yellow felt, sewed a circle on top, cut and glued smaller pink circles for cheeks, glued on some wiggle eyes and then added a smile with some embroidery thread. Easy and cute!

Next, you’ll want to cut two layers of felt that are 11″ x 6.5″ (the red one is my outside layer and the pink is my inside layer). You’ll also want a pocket that is 4.5″ x 6.5″ and a strip for the crayon area that is 2″ x 6.5″. Fold, pin, and sew a strip of your double fold bias tape down the length of one of your pocket sides. Then pin your pocket in place, lining up the edges without the bias tape along the right side edge of your inside layer. Sew with 1/4″ seam allowance around the 3 outer edges to attach pocket to inside layer. Then, pin your crayon strip to the left side of your inside layer about 2″ in from the outside edge (you can mark where the middle of the layer is with a few pins for reference).Next, use a pin to pin your 5/8″ elastic to the middle center of your crayon strip. Place a crayon next to the pin, under the elastic, and pin the other side next to the crayon so it creates a little loop for the crayon to be placed into. You want to pull a little bit so the elastic isn’t loose, but it doesn’t need to be very tight on the crayon to hold it. Keep placing crayons and pinning until you have spots for as many crayons as you can fit (mine fits 8 triangle crayons). Use your machine to sew across the elastic where each pin is and trim the excess off the edges.
If you have a decoration to add to the front, sew it on so it will appear where you want it on the front panel (make sure to leave room for your button at the end!) and then you should have two panels that look like this!
Place your outside layer and inside layers wrong sides together and pin and sew around the edge with 1/4″ seam allowance to keep all your layers in place while you add your bias tape. I would also sew down the middle line of the wallet as that helps the little book close more easily. Next, fold under the beginning 1/4″ of your bias tape (so it doesn’t unravel) and pin your bias tape to straddle one edge of your wallet and sew until you get all the way to the end of that side. Then, continue folding down and pinning your bias tape down the next side and you’ll see that the corner has a neat 45° angle look to it. Repeat for each side until you get back to the beginning. You’ll also want to add your elastic loop on the back side of your wallet, so make sure to look at that step below before completing the bias tape step. Once you reach your starting point, cut the end of your tape so it goes past the starting point about 1″ and fold under the last 1/2″ so you have a folded edge to end with. Pin and sew in place.To add the elastic loop, cut a 5″ long piece of 1/4″ wide elastic and cross the ends to make a loop. When sewing the left side of the outside panel, stick the ends of the elastic loop into the bias tape as you pin it so it will be sewn together in place after sewing.Once you’re done sewing the bias tape, you can fold the elastic back the other way and sew that section down so it will face the direction of the button more easily when closed (this is an optional step but makes it easier for kids to close on their own).Sew your button to the front of your wallet about 1″ from the edge and your wallet is ready to fill with crayons!

I love how this came out! Lola was eyeing all the crayons and paper I had out for a few days, so she was thrilled when this was done and she was finally able to get in there and draw. Putting stickers in the paper pocket is also a must for toddlers, so fill that bad boy up with some cute ones! These would make great birthday or holiday gifts for kiddos as well and if you want to up the age range a little, you could make it a little bigger with a bigger notepad and smaller slots for colored pencils as well. Happy sewing! xo. Laura

Credits//Author and Photography: Laura Gummerman. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

DIY Paper Dolls (with Free Printables!)

I know I can’t be the only person that played with paper dolls as a kid … I loved that you could change all their outfits and make up stories for them like you can with “real” dolls and (from a parent’s perspective now) it’s great that they are a toy that can easily be packed or stored away as they don’t take up much space. With us being in the midst of the holiday season, we partnered with our friends at Canon USA to create some printable paper dolls so you can make your own set at home—such a great gift!

Canon PIXMA G6020 Wireless MegaTank Printer
-sturdy card stock or photo paper (or this Canon Magnetic Photo Paper MG-101 would be another fun alternative!)
Paper Dolls Printable (right click to download)

OK, these steps are pretty easy, guys! First, print out your printable pages onto thick card stock or matte photo paper. I used the Canon PIXMA G6020 Wireless MegaTank printer for this project—its ink capacity is amazing! Being able to print at home is a huge time saver and that’s something we can all appreciate, especially around the holidays! Use your scissors (or X-Acto knife!) to cut out your dolls and accessories. If gifting, place them all into a box or folder for storage and let the dress up begin!

How sweet are those!? I think paper dolls have a wide range of ages, but I may wait another year to let my wild toddler have a go at these cuties. Thankfully, they will store well, so they’ll be ready when she is! You could also print these on Canon Magnetic Photo Paper MG-101 (cut off the tabs on the clothing) and use them on your fridge or a magnet board! I love that I could print these from my home and they can be an easy gift to print off anytime of the year you need a cute gift for a kiddo. What do you think, will these dolls make it onto your gifting list this year? xo. Laura

Credits // Author and Photography: Laura Gummerman. Graphic Design: Mara Dockery. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.

DIY String Art Ornaments

If you have ever wanted to make a DIY light up marquee but felt a little intimidated, then I have a project for you! You should totally make these DIY string art ornaments. They are very much like a mini marquee in that you’ll use a light from your Christmas tree to light up the ornament “star” on top.

For this project, I worked with Fiskars and used two of their DIY tools, their precision hand drill and hammer (with precision nail starter), to create these ornaments. I love the simplicity and design of their tools, they feel like they were created with makers in mind. But if you’re starting to feel intimidated just by the mention of tools, please read on because I promise these ornaments are SO easy to make and I just loved how they turned out!

You could easily customize these and use any colors for the tree and ornaments that you like. And if Christmas trees aren’t your thing, you could absolutely choose a different design for this string art ornament concept. I also think this could be a pretty cute project to make with friends or make a bunch and gift to others. 🙂

-small wooden rectangles
-small nails (I actually used 5/8-inch wire brads)
-embroidery thread
-mini pom poms
-super glue
-fine sandpaper
Fiskars hand drill
Fiskars hammer
-Fisksars nail starter

One quick note about the wooden rectangles: You can find these at craft stores or online, although I had a hard time finding some the thickness that I wanted so my brads would have a good depth to go into. But I also didn’t want the wood to be too thick. So I ended up buying some the shape and size I wanted and gluing two together for each ornament so the thickness would work for this project. You may be able to find small wooden rectangles or other shapes that work better, but if not don’t be afraid to glue a few together because it worked great for me.

Step One: Lightly sketch your design in pencil and then drill the hole at the top of the tree. If needed, use your sandpaper to smooth around the hole. And if you have difficulty finding an easy way to hold the wood while drilling, I recommend using a clamp and the side of a table. 🙂

Step Two: Add nails along the outside of your design. The nail starter helped a lot here I found because the wire brads I used were so small. And make sure to lightly erase any lines you’ve drawn as you go (although if you forget I noticed that you can hardly notice them after you add the string anyway, but still nice to try and keep the project super clean).

Step Three: Add the string, tying once you have your design in place. Then glue on the mini pom poms for the ornaments on the tree.

To hang these ornaments, simply find a light on the tree and tuck the light through the hole (so the “star” on there will light up when the lights are turned on). I obviously have an artificial tree, so it’s really easy to move the branches slightly as needed to help these stay in place. But if you want, you could also add a little ribbon loop at the top to hang these if needed.

As with any light up marquee made with wood and holiday lights, don’t leave the lights on overnight or unattended. This is good advice for Christmas trees too. Everyone be safe this holiday season. Happy holidays! xo. Emma

Credits // Author and Photography: Emma Chapman. Photos edited with A Color Story Desktop.